Mull
If you want a real getaway Scottish island break without a long sea-crossing, then head for the Isle of Mull. Everyone who has visited this part of West Highlands has their own favourite island and after Skye, Mull is the most popular. Once you have experienced the spectacular mountain scenery, the miles of single track roads, (with many wandering sheep), the wild coastline, white sandy beaches, castles, fine hospitality and the freshest seafood - you will surely return.
It may seem a long journey to get there but in fact it's very straightforward and accessible. There are between 5 - 8 car ferry crossings daily with Caledonian MacBrayne from Oban - it is advisable to book in advance on weekends in peak summer months. The trip only takes about 45 minutes and there is every facility on board - bar, cafeteria, shop and indoor lounge and on deck seating for fabulous views as you sail across the Firth of Lorn. The stunning sight of the 13th century Duart Castle on the headland (as seen here) announces your imminent arrival at Craignure on the south east of the island. If you don't take a car there is a good bus service around the island, or like many visitors, bring a bike!
Western Isles Hotel
Our destination is a 30 minute drive up the winding west coastline - partially a single track road with passing places - to Tobermory, a charming harbour town with its semi-circle of colourfully painted shops, pubs, B&Bs and hotels curving around the bay. Lying at the bottom of the harbour is a galleon, The Florida, from the Spanish Armada which sank in mysterious circumstances along with its reputed treasure of gold bullion.
For the best views over Tobermory Bay and across the Sound of Mull to the mainland, the best place to stay is the Western Isles Hotel which has a prime location up the hill at the north side of the harbour. With 28 bedrooms, this is the grandest and largest hotel on the island, offering attractively decorated bedrooms. Some have a four poster bed and all are very different in style and character with quality fabrics, wallpaper and drapes. Book a larger master or deluxe bedroom, such as Glenfarclas and Tobermory for superb views or for a special romantic occasion, check into the delightful Mendelssohn Suite with its own spacious bay windowed sitting room complete with piano (the theme is of course musical), leading through to a huge bedroom and bathroom and there's also a small private garden.
But wherever you sleep, you are sure to have every comfort, with single, twin and double beds, colour TV, telephone, clock radio, tea and coffee tray, trouser press, piles of soft white towels and Molton Brown toiletries. You will also have the company during your stay of a baby seal, Sleepy Seal, a sweet cuddly toy who can be placed outside your door for privacy.
The owners Vivien and Paul Thomson just took over the Western Isles in October 2002 and are now slowly upgrading and renovating rooms where necessary. Their underlying policy and aim is for top quality in every aspect of the hotel from bedroom comfort to cuisine and service. Everywhere there is a peaceful mood of carefree, calm relaxation whether sitting in the drawing room after dinner, a leisurely drink in the Conservatory Bar or on fine days enjoy a coffee or a light lunch sitting outside on the charming patio terrace. In late June the weather was extremely warm, a clear blue sky and sitting here overlooking the marina of yachts in the harbour below, I quite believed I was in the South of France.
Dining at Western Isles Hotel
And so to an important aspect of hotel life - the food. You can select to eat in the Conservatory Bar for a more casual bar meal or in the Dining Room. This is an elegant and formal room with the best tables at the bay window - although the view would probably be too distracting such that little conversation would ensue with your companion. A traditional setting perhaps but there is no stuffy formality or jacket and tie dress code - smart-casual will suffice to ensure guests are comfortable and relaxed. Service is friendly and chatty by an army of young boys and girls with some local islanders who will be pleased to advise you on where to go and what to see on the island.
Menus are displayed at reception and on each bedroom landing during the day so that guests may check its suitability well in advance of dinner. There are three courses with four choices each. Select, for instance, a delicious Lobster Salad - chunky pink fish served with tiny new potatoes and capers with coriander seed dressing, or Sugar Coated Beef with Noodles, Wasabi Spiced Soy and Spring Onion Relish or Carrot and Coriander soup. Then a delicate and refreshing Lemon Sorbet is served before the main course. Local produce is the essence of the menu especially the scallops, oysters, langoustine, lobster, sea bream, sea bass and wild salmon from around the island shores and lochs. For meat eaters you could select Pan Seared Barbary Duck Breast with Savoy Cabbage and Smoked Ham, or Loin of Venison on Root Vegetable risotto with game stock reduction. Vegetarians are not forgotten with such dishes as an Open ravioli of Wild Mushrooms with Truffle Saboyan and Buffalo Mozzarella, or Roast Vegetable Crepe with Basil dressing and Salad leaves. Despite being very substantial, all main courses are also served with a small dish of fresh vegetables.
Head Chef Graham Horne is enjoying his first season at the Western Isles Hotel, following 13 years working on Mull, with the freedom to create his own style of contemporary Scottish cuisine. He is particularly inspired by both Italian and Oriental cooking which clearly shows in the fresh ingredients, light stir fry cooking and imaginative use of herbs, spices, dressings, salads and vegetables. Leave room for dessert which might include a Rich Dark Chocolate Parfait with Sauce Anglais and Orange Segments, Sticky Apricot Pudding served with Lemon Grass syrup or select the Cheese Board, with a superb selection of local Mull cheddar, smoked and soft cheeses.
The Conservatory Bar offers a comprehensive range of superior bar meals, from sandwiches - not your ordinary Ploughman's, but Smoked Chicken with Roasted Vegetables and Tapenade, or Mascarpone & Marinated Mushrooms - to lunch and dinner. Starters include Soups, Tagliatelle with Walnut Pesto, Crab and Sweetcorn Spring Rolls with a chilli sauce; main courses such as Scallops, Proscuitto & Pesto Salad, Seared Tuna on Stir Fried Vegetables with Sesame Noodles & ginger Soy sauce, or Sirloin Steak - pan fried with garlic butter, chips and salad as well as vegetarian salads, pasta and tarts.
There is a well priced wine list from vineyards around the world. While champagne is not served by the glass, there is a half bottle at just £16 which could not be resisted as the perfect aperitif on a warm summer evening.
Continental breakfast can be served in your room. But if you prefer the full Scottish breakfast, then make your way down to the dining room by 9.30am. To begin, there is a help yourself buffet of fruit juice, cereals and fruit - which is, I am afraid, rather disappointing - tinned prunes and grapefruit. Why not serve fresh summer berries, melon, apricots, bananas and natural yoghurt rather than sugary fruit brands? What about a good home-made muesli rather than Alpen ? A bowl of porridge may also be ordered. You can tell some guests here prefer a healthy diet - on two mornings the jug of semi-skimmed milk was empty, while the full-fat milk jug was virtually untouched. The hot breakfast dishes are excellent, including Scrambled Egg with Smoked Tobermory Trout, (utterly divine); alternatively eggs - as you like them - bacon, sausage and mushrooms, or Kippers. All served with wholemeal and white toast, the usual mini jars of Baxter's jam and marmalade, tea-bag tea and coffee.
A Good Base for Touring Mull
The Western Isles Hotel, Tobermory is the ideal location for touring the Isle of Mull and appreciating the extraordinary open green landscape and the fresh sea air. For instance take a fine walk up along the cliff top path above the hotel to the Rudha nan Gall lighthouse or there are longer walking and cycling trails to Ardmore Point. Cycle or drive 5 miles north to the stunning Glencorm Castle in lovely gardens with café and art gallery, or head about 12 miles west over to Calgary Bay with its pure white sand beach.
Take a full day out by driving right over to the south west corner at Fionnphort and take the 5 minute ferry trip to Iona (pictured here) or go on the Staffa Boat trip under skipper David Kirkpatrick to explore the island with its famous puffins and venture into Fingal`s Cave.
Then you may begin to understand why Mendelssohn was so creatively enraptured and inspired by Mull and its surrounding Hebridean islands. Just as you will be.
More Information
For more information or to make a reservation see the Western Isles Hotel Web site or e-mail wihotel@aol.com.
